Is the chlorinator really working?
These are common questions that pool owners ask quite often.
Here are some questions you need to firstly ask yourself...
If you test your pool water and can’t get a chlorine level reading at all it may be due to a very high chlorine demand.
A high chlorine demand is the inability to keep an adequate level of chlorine in the pool water even though the water appears to be balanced and properly maintained.
That means that oxidation levels have increased to a point where chlorine is being consumed faster than it can be put into the water by either shocking or normal applications such as a salt chlorinator.
Contamination, low pH or low chlorine stabiliser levels could cause this situation.
The water might appear cloudy, the pool walls be slimy or the pool may look relatively OK.
What might have caused that high chlorine demand in your pool?
There are quite a few possible causes for your pool to develop an excessive chlorine demand.
You might have an infestation of algae, fungus or bacteria that can deplete normal chlorine levels and it is possible for this to occur without many visible signs.
Your pool may appear to have a dusty look on the pool bottom. If you brush it and it clouds the water, then it is most likely a Mustard Algae.
Another possibility is nitrogen contamination, which would produce a high level of chloramines, which then require far larger than normal amounts of chlorine for oxidation.
If the high chlorine demand occurs when you are opening the pool after winter, it may be that a combination of debris, contaminants and algae have developed in the pool over the closed season and that this is the cause.
In the summer months it’s possible that a high bather load, perhaps over a couple of days has caused the situation.
What should I do if I can’t get a chlorine reading?
Determine if your pool has a High Demand For Chlorine
The quickest way to determine if your pool is experiencing a high demand for chlorine is to perform a test for free and total chlorine.
Free chlorine shows the level of disinfecting chlorine available to sanitise your pool. Free chlorine isn’t interacting with contaminants, yet. Total chlorine is the amount of chlorine, used or not, in your water.
In the test, if your free chlorine reading matches your total chlorine reading, your pool is NOT experiencing a high demand for chlorine. This is a normal reading.
However, if your free chlorine reading is different than your total chlorine reading, then there’s a problem. You shouldn’t have a free chlorine reading of 3 and a total chlorine reading of 7.
Breaking Your Chlorine Lock
While there are many ways to solve this issue, we will only be covering a few of them. Please select the option you are most comfortable with.
Partially Draining Your Pool
One of the simplest methods to breaking chlorine demand is by partially draining your pool. The severity of the chlorine lock determines how long this method takes. Unfortunately, there’s no exact science to this. Simply drain your pool little by little, refill it, test it, and repeat if necessary.
Shock Your Pool
Another method of breaking chlorine lock is shocking your pool. Bring your chlorine levels to 20ppm or three times higher than the current levels. We recommend using a non-chlorine oxidizing shock until your free and total chlorine reads the same.
We typically see more pools with a high demand for chlorine during spring opening season. A lot of the times, pools sit for months accumulating a ton of different contaminants. This is one of the reasons we always recommend balancing your pool before you close it. You don’t want to compile pool issues or push them to the side. Although high chlorine demand is more common than you might suspect, it is something pool owners can handle themselves.
If your pool water test kit can’t give you a chlorine reading, the best thing to do is to get your pool shop to conduct a chlorine demand test.
One of the causes of a high chlorine demand is an excessive buildup of algae and phosphates. Although you’re adding chlorine to your water, bacteria or algae are overpowering the chemicals causing it not to show up on tests strips or in water kits.
Keep in mind, organic materials like algae, leaves, sunscreen, lotions, pee, poop, etc., consume chlorine. As chlorine does its job, it is depleted in the process. To prevent the demand for chlorine from happening, help remove the organic material from your pool water by brushing the algae from the pool walls, cleaning your filter, and removing leaves and debris from the water.
Other reasons for no chlorine readings...
Very little or zero stabilizer also creates a demand for chlorine. Cyanuric acid, in a sense, acts like sunscreen for the pool. If you’ve ever worn sunscreen in the hot sun, you know that you have to consistently re-apply. Our pools are the same way. If your CYA levels are really low, the sun can burn through the chlorine in your pool rather quickly.
If you have a saltwater pool, ensure your salt levels are in the correct range, typically around the 4000ppm is okay. Starting a pool after the Winter break or after heavy rain is when your pool will be down on salt.
Low salt = low chlorine production.
Multi speed Eco pumps are now very common. If you have one, ensure you are running the pump for the correct amount of hours for your size pool. Lower flow means less chlorine going into your pool when using a salt chlorinator. Your local pool shop will be able to advise the best running times for your particular setup.
On the Flip side...
In some circumstances, it’s possible that the chlorine level in your pool is so high that it is bleaching the reagent in your test kit. You may "think" that you don't have a chlorine reading, where in fact it's off the scale? So having a professional test the water is really the most sensible option and that will tell you which course of action to take.
Also, this extra high chlorine reading may have been caused by a pool cover too. Keep a check on chlorine levels in a pool using a cover. Excessive chlorine levels can make the water very corrosive and damage plastics such as pool cleaners and the cover itself.
For more infomation or to chat with a pool tech please call 1300 766 522
By following these four easy steps, you will be able to quickly troubleshoot problems with your pool pump and keep it running effectively to keep your pool sparkling clean.
Pool Pumps can get blocked on the inside due to debris getting caught in the impellor. Over the years some leaves go through the skimmer basket and pump basket and get caught inside
Step 1: Turn Off the Water to Pump
Before you do anything, shut water off at the valve that feeds the pump and close down electricity to the pump as well.
If you do not do this, the water will continue to flow and when you open the pump, you'll not only get soaked but you'll have to stop mid-way through your repair to shut off the water.
Step 2: Clear the Filter Basket
The first place to look for obstructions is in the filter basket. The basket is easily accessible and is always located in a clearly visible area.
Pull the basket out of its recess and remove any foreign objects that you find in it. If your pool is close to trees or bushes, it's likely that leaves, berries or small twigs have been sucked up by the pump. After the basket is clear, turn the electricity to the pump back on and see how it is functioning.
If the suction has returned, your repair is over.
If there still seems to be something blocking your pool pump, you'll have to shut the pump off again and move on to the next step.
Step 3: Clean the Impeller
The Pump consists of two ends ( Wet end and motor ) usually there are six or more blots holding these two parts together.
The impeller is a rotor that uses pressure to keep the water flowing and helps the pump function to keep your pool clean. Often, the impeller can look like a little fan with blades and small pieces of debris can often become stuck or entangled in the parts that stick out from it.
To get to the impeller, Undo the bold on the outside of the pump. You will see a sequence of bolts attaching the two parts together just after the outlet of the pump ( the pipe that goes to your filter )
Use a socket set and undo these bolts. Then Pull the pump apart.
Usually there is a shield cover held by two screws covering the impellor. Once removed there will probably be a small amount of dirt or other debris around it so be careful as you use your fingers to clear out whatever is preventing the impeller from doing its job.
You can also use a coat hanger or thin wire and poke through the veins from the outside in.
Step 4: Reattachment
Once you have cleaned the impeller, re-connect the basket end to the rest of the pump, tightening the bolts sufficiently so that it is properly attached.
Now, reattach the pump back to the pipework and fill the basket back up with water and open any valves you might have closed at the start
Turn the Power back on and your pump should be working like new. Be sure to check the filter basket and impeller regularly as this is the best way to ensure you don't encounter a clogged pool pump when you next go for a swim.
You should backwash and rinse your filter about once a month.
The optimal time is right after you vacuum the pool. However, if your pool has had a lot more use than normal, it may be necessary to backwash twice a month.
But, you can also tell when it is time for a backwash by checking the sand filter system’s pressure gauge. Normal operating pressures are between 50 and 75Kpa (kilopascal). When the sand gets dirty and clogged up, however, the pressure reading rises. If the Kpa pressure on the gauge is showing north of 100Kpa, it’s time to backwash your filter.